Them blowing up after 100K, so Volvo now recommends that the tensioner be Tensioner in my hand, and said "you are replacing that when you replace theīelt, right?) I stated I was, and he said, "good, there was a problem with Parts counter, a mechanic came up to the counter for parts, noticed the It another 50K miles, let alone another 105K. Still serviceable, but wouldn't feel comfortable that any of them would make Inspecting the water pump, tensioner, and idler, I determined that all were Plus, even though I drained most of theĬoolant, I still ended up with a big puddle of coolant when the pump was Out how to get the pump out of the general area. Additionally, it takes a bit of fiddling to figure Removing the pump naturally leaves part of the gasket on the block, which Loft of the garage, & it tends to shake the house a bit when it runs) I have a big 5HP industrial two stage compressor mounted in the Ratchet, but by this time it was late at night & didn't want to wake the Threads, which take a long time to remove. It has seven small screws with sealant material on the The only tedious part of the job was the water pump. Why didn't these dumbasses put the mark directly vertical, i.e.Īt 12 o'clock position? Then you could be assured of no parallax error.Īnyway, with the mark aligned with belt off, the roll pin on the pulley isĪt 12 o'clock, so you can use this as a check after belt installation. Tensioner, the belt angle obscures your vision, so you cannot see it Tensioner, you can see the mark pretty readily. With the pictures on Volvospeed of the 850 with hydraulic The Volvo engineers really did a horrible job on The pulley is only on with a very light interference fit.Ī comment on timing marks. Used the impact to remove the four bolts as well, which speeded things up. Was far easier to remove than many other cars I have worked on. It took meĮxactly two minutes to remove it, which included marking the crank nut. The "remove pulley" route is the ONLY way to go! Since I was timingĮverything, I noted the time when I started to remove the pulley. Let me just emphatically state that if you have an impact and a 6" puller, Gave up and went the "remove pulley" route. Loosening the brackets for the line, but still it wouldn't move much. Just under the lower belt cover that is not there on an 850. The reason is that there is a fuel line that runs Hour of my 5 hours, and I believe that it is either not possible or a total, I investigated this first, which ate up a half I have seen numerous references that the belt can be removed without I'm glad that Tim sent me the info, as it Preparing for this work, I brushed up on the general procedure with the (if I had to replace just the timing belt on my S70Īgain, I believe I could do it in under an hour maybe as quick as a half The water pump was the most expensive item. Since I had it apart, I decided to replace all moving parts: Say the same for the serpentine belt it should have been replaced a long (It still looks OK, with only very light cracking under sharp bend) Can't I wouldn't normally wait theįull interval, but at my last plug change at 90K, the timing belt looked OK. This car just turned 105K miles which is the recommended service intervalįor the timing belt according to my manual. I had the cover off, which meant I had to pay dealer prices. They cite instances of servicing 1999 S70's with hydraulic tensioners.Īnyway, mine has the mechanical, but I didn't end up buying the parts until Sometime during the 1998 model year, specifically with engine # 1266128,īoth Volvo dealers here in San Diego state that this is not a certainty. Info on the web that Volvo switched from hydraulic to mechanical tensioners Hydraulic vs mechanical tensioners on 1998-2000 S70's. for sending me the detailed instructions for theįirst off, let me say that there is confusion here in the states regarding Help others contemplating "doing it yourself". I changed the timing belt & associated other parts over the weekend on my 'ĩ9 S70, and thought I'd share some observations I made during the process to
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